‘’Ever since you moved to Europe you hate America!”
My teen-aged grandson hurled the accusation three years ago as we argued politics in my kitchen outside Stockholm. Obama was not yet the hope heard ‘round the world.
In fact, so many American ex-pats held little hope then. Bush had been re-elected despite our efforts, and all we wanted was for the embarrassment and shame to end. Living outside what my Swedish husband once called “the American bubble” put us on the front-line for criticism of our government’s actions at home and around the world. The empathy heaped on us after 9/11 was squandered; some of us actually lied while traveling, claiming to be Canadian.
Today, there’s no need. My “Obama in ‘08” button is a giveaway during yet another visit to Tanzania, East Africa to visit my school and orphanage at Bibi Jann Children’s Care Trust near Dar es Salaam. I haven’t experienced such an international ice-breaker since trading JFK coins with Peruvians in 1977.
Obama frenzy is hotter than the Dar days.
In the warren of crafts stalls at Mwenge, one store sports a new sign: The Barack Obama We Hope Shop. At the police station where I report my stolen bag, the cop begs for my button (but I’ve already lost enough!).
On the ferry to Zanzibar, a young man confides he actually met the Big Man in Muncie, Indiana while visiting there. “Yes, my country needs him,” I reply.
“The WORLD needs Obama,” corrects another passenger.
“I’m Canadian, and we’d all vote for him if we could,” offers a balding man with a seasick bag at the ready.
In the marketplace, a man smiles in recognition and follows me, calling, “Mrs. Obama, Mrs. Obama!” A tall Masaii tribesman beams brightly above the colorful beadwork at his neck, hails me with his spear and delivers an unlikely campaign speech in English.
I’d once explained to my grandson that patriotism wasn’t automatically swallowing whatever the President said. Rather, it was ensuring that the U.S. Constitution was upheld, respected. Now, I wished I could convey to Americans back home that their votes affect not only us, but the world.
Standing in our embassy in Dar awaiting my emergency replacement passport, I joined two Tanzanian guards watching the vice presidential debates on an overhead television. The pair was rapt, glancing from the screen only when I snorted disagreement or cheered approval.
I suddenly wished all Americans were as interested in the campaign, as well-informed as people half a world away.
Back home in Sweden, I’m visiting my step-children in Old Stockholm when I overhear a American accent. “Have you voted?” I interrupt in passing. “Already have,” the young man answers, not even breaking his stride.” Without having to ask, I know for whom. Outside the military, ex-pat Republicans are as rare as a smiling security official.
And in Goteborg on the west coast, my friend Beth and I commiserate in disbelief about our brothers – hers in North Carolina, mine in Alabama. Both have swallowed the propaganda that Obama is actually a Muslim, funded by terrorists intent on taking over the U.S. Government from the inside. “Have aliens stolen his brain?” Beth muses.
Yet in Holland, two Americans abroad for their first time wonder whether I fear my Muslim friends in Tanzania. They were the first to comfort me after 9/11, I explain patiently, the first to lend me money recently when I was robbed. The “M word” does not automatically translate to the “T word”, I long to shout at people like them and my brother.
Today, there’s more than my Obama button drawing nods. I sport a gray, Tanzanians For Obama T-shirt, his face tri-colored in green, yellow and black like the Tanzanian flag.
But my sentiment – my patriotic HOPE – is strictly red, white and blue.
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Sunday, October 19, 2008
DOCUMENTARY FINISHES FILMING!
A long-planned dream is coming true: A documentary film about the school and GRANDMA-2-GRANDMA program of Bibi Jann Children's Care Trust!
I was in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania late Sept.29-Oct. 7 to be interviewed and filmed by Anne Macksoud, John Ankele and Nick Blair of Old Dog Documentaries. They specialize in films on social issues. We also welcomed African-Americans from a similar program in The Bronx, also featured in the film.
What a shock Dar and the village of Mbagala were for these street-savvy city folk: big bugs, squat toilets, different foods. But they loved meeting our grandmas and kids, dinner at the American Ambassador's home, and a safari through Mikumi Wildlife Park. Groups of our "bibis" and kids came along for the various outings, including the ferry boat ride to Zanzibar, which the Americans missed when they decided to return home early.
The documentarians are enthusiastic about the upcoming film, and are graciously cutting a smaller version for us to show for fund-raising. Hopefully, you'll soon be able to see us on TV - or at one of the premieres we hope to hold in New York City, Dar, Portland OR and Stockholm.
Our American visitors were so touched by the poverty yet goodness that they found among the Africans, that they left clothes behind and are now gathering goods to ship to Tanzania. Enjoy some photos below.
I was in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania late Sept.29-Oct. 7 to be interviewed and filmed by Anne Macksoud, John Ankele and Nick Blair of Old Dog Documentaries. They specialize in films on social issues. We also welcomed African-Americans from a similar program in The Bronx, also featured in the film.
What a shock Dar and the village of Mbagala were for these street-savvy city folk: big bugs, squat toilets, different foods. But they loved meeting our grandmas and kids, dinner at the American Ambassador's home, and a safari through Mikumi Wildlife Park. Groups of our "bibis" and kids came along for the various outings, including the ferry boat ride to Zanzibar, which the Americans missed when they decided to return home early.
The documentarians are enthusiastic about the upcoming film, and are graciously cutting a smaller version for us to show for fund-raising. Hopefully, you'll soon be able to see us on TV - or at one of the premieres we hope to hold in New York City, Dar, Portland OR and Stockholm.
Our American visitors were so touched by the poverty yet goodness that they found among the Africans, that they left clothes behind and are now gathering goods to ship to Tanzania. Enjoy some photos below.
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GETTING THE GOATS HOME
Leading the goats to the pickup truck wasn't easy!
The goats are now at home on the bibi farm, with wide open spaces to graze on.
This where the bibis will raise animals and crow cassava to feed their grandchildren and to sell. Fatuma, Dickson and Jann are in front, with pen to left, unfinished farmhouse in middle and neighbor's nyd watle house in rear right.
SMART GIRLS FIELD TRIP
Smart Girls Club on a field trip to art center to explore career opportunities.
We picnicked...
...And then we went for ice cream.
Emil of Unique Batiks told the girls about his designs.
The girls learned how the primitive Tinga Tinga painting style began.
Can you believe we got 23 people into this van?
ISGR 4th Graders Donate
These students in Goteborg, Sweden raised over $500 for the new Bibi Jann Farm!
DISCOVERING NEW YORK...
St. Patrick's Cathedral
An NYC cop in Times Square
Hors d' voueres at the mayor's Gracie Mansion
Rooftop garden - imagine! with social workers Lysa and Katharine at the4 Grandparent Apts. in the Bronx.
HALLOWEEN
Jann applies makeup
A well-decorated yard
Fatuma and son-in-law Tom in air-filled clown suit
Candy break
Sorting the loot
Fatuma, Jann's son Keith Hess at Eugene Waldorf School
Snow Fun
Tom captures the first sled ride
Ready to go...
Oops!
Warming up inside the lodge
Cuddled up to a carved critter
A cup of cocoa helps
Renee gifts Fatuma with a souvenir snow globe so she can have snow in Tanzania
Fatuma's first visit to American grocery, shopping for Tanzanian fare
...But we can't find the Tanzanian aisle!
Kitchen is more elaborate than what Fatuma is used to
Girls watch Fatuma make chipati
Son-in-law Tom has his hands washed
Chloe, Eva like eating with their fingers
...And so do Japanese visitors Miho, Ruli
Fatuma finds the Oregon Coast more rugged than Tanzania's
A new way to dry hands!
Fatuma, Jeanne, Suzanne enjoy Horn of Africa restaurant
Meeting a sturgeon
Watching barge navigate the dam through the lock
Salmon migrating upstream will die after spawining
Multnomah Falls from afar
FANCY FOOTWASH
Fatuma, Jann and Renee soak their tootsies in warm water while rollers kneads their backs.
...While catching it on camera
...Sparkle on the toes
...Plus a manicure
...Resulting in fancy footwork
...After a day in school
...Including cafeteria lunch
GETTING A GRIP ON AMERICA
Nine-year-old Chloe, Jann's granddaughter, teaches the teaches about local currency.
...And it inhabitants
Pirate-themed kids' concert
..Some of whom dress better
Fatuma with the Heathman Hotel doorman and Miho, the Japanese girl visiting my daughter's home.
And its gadgets
Testing the $3,500 Brookstone massage chair
Even moving stairs!
Mall escalator
But kids are the same everywhere
Chloe, Eva, Alexa and Miho have fun at Gramma's tumbling dominoes